![]() ![]() I didn't know the Vat-4300 has a resolution of. I have always recommended people watch the YouTube videos before purchasing and still do so one knows what this thing is all about. I haven't tried the wireless range yet, but hopefully it is better than the short bluetooth range of my BMS and MPTT.Ĭlick to expand.I am currently using the VAT-1100 and I love it and intend to get the VAT-1300. The 6500AH maximum battery capacity is disappointing, the raw hex bolt head spinning against the underside of the PCB makes me wonder how long till the PCB shatters, the top cover is stupid, the top and cover and bottom shells are full of cutout holes. The display unit does support wired and 2.4Ghz wireless, but it also needs power (so we now have 2 pairs of aligator cables between the shunt unit to the main battery terminals, and either a USB cable between the shunt unit and the display unit, or a separate 12V USB charger)įor my purposes I wanted to use it as a capacity monitor, I don't plan to use the relay as my MPTT and my BMS provide under/overvoltage protection. My LCD display is not level, it is rotated about 5 degrees CW. The wiring is inconvenient, I needed 10-30V to power the shunt (I connected it with aligator clips to my 8s280AH battery terminals), then the shunt itself needs connections from the 1st green screw terminal, and from the first shunt bolt, again to the main battery positive and negative. This is on the 2nd screen, but within 2 seconds it reverts back to the main screen. The default screen shows Voltage, Amps and battery %, but not the discharge power or AH. The 500A model I chose has a nice big shunt, but the (display ?) resolution is 0.1V whereas the smaller shunt models are 0.01V (Despite the manual saying the AH capacity range is 0-2000 kAH) The maximum AH for the battery setting is 6500AH, which is only 90% of the capacity of 8s280AH cells. The slots for the cables will need to be enlarged with a dremmel. The top lid is full of holes and they're not even the same size for the two shunt bolts, which have unsecured hex bolt heads against the underside of the PCB. The temperature sensor socket is directly under the path of the right negative lead I have doubts it will even fit with the lead clamped down. ![]() The plastic top cover has cutout slots for the negative cabling to come out of the bottom, the cutouts are too small to fit any 4AWG or 6AWG crimped lug, nor even my 200A BMS's lead lug. The shunt unit feels heavy and pretty sturdy, although the design is stupid. My Juntek VAT 4300 just arrived today after maybe 2 months wait from aliexpress.
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